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Italian luxury fashion house Prada has found itself at the center of a cultural appropriation debate after unveiling a new footwear line at Milan Fashion Week that strongly resembles India’s traditional Kolhapuri sandals. The release triggered criticism in India over the lack of credit to the indigenous artisans and the cultural heritage behind the design. In response to mounting pressure, Prada has now formally acknowledged the Indian roots of the sandals and expressed willingness to engage with local craftsmen.
I. Design Dispute Ignites Cultural Debate
1. Kolhapuri Sandals Take the Global Stage
The controversy began when Prada showcased open-toe braided leather sandals during its recent Milan Fashion Week collection. Observers quickly pointed out that the design mirrored the traditional Kolhapuri sandals, named after the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, India. These iconic sandals, crafted by generations of Indian artisans, are well-known for their durability, distinctive handwoven appearance, and cultural significance.
2. Backlash Over Lack of Attribution
Initially labeled by Prada merely as “leather footwear,” the absence of any mention of the sandals’ Indian origin drew accusations of cultural appropriation. The backlash gained traction on Indian social media and within industry circles, with critics expressing dismay that the fashion giant had commercialized a traditional Indian design without proper acknowledgment or compensation to its creators.
II. Prada Responds to Growing Criticism
1. Public Acknowledgment of Indian Heritage
In a statement issued to the BBC, Prada formally recognized that the sandal design was inspired by India’s rich footwear heritage. A company spokesperson emphasized that Prada has “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage, and design traditions,” and that it was actively engaging with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture to address the concerns.
2. Dialogue with Indian Artisans in Progress
Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, responded directly to correspondence from the chamber. He confirmed that the design was still in its early stages and expressed openness to building a “meaningful exchange” with local Indian artisans. Plans for future meetings and collaborations are reportedly underway as the brand explores ways to ensure respectful engagement with the Kolhapuri community.
III. The Legacy of Kolhapuri Sandals
1. Centuries-Old Craftsmanship
Kolhapuri sandals date back to the 12th century and are traditionally made from leather, often dyed with natural pigments. Their sturdy construction and breathable design make them ideal for the hot Indian climate. Each pair reflects generations of artisanal expertise passed down through families in Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka.
2. Protected Cultural Identity
In 2019, the Indian government granted Kolhapuri sandals Geographical Indication (GI) status, officially recognizing them as a unique product tied to a specific region. According to the World Trade Organization, GI tags act as markers of authenticity and preserve the cultural and commercial value of traditional goods.
IV. Mixed Reactions in India
1. Artisans Voice Concerns
Many local artisans in Kolhapur were disheartened by Prada’s initial omission of their contribution. “These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur,” said artisan Prabha Satpute in an interview with BBC Marathi. The perceived exploitation of their labor, coupled with the high prices associated with luxury branding, stirred frustration among those who have kept the tradition alive for centuries.
2. Disparity in Pricing and Recognition
While Kolhapuri sandals typically retail for a few hundred rupees in India, Prada’s luxury version is assumed to be priced significantly higher—potentially in the range of £600 to £1,000, based on the brand’s standard pricing. Although the exact price is not listed on Prada’s website, the stark disparity between the compensation received by Indian artisans and the value assigned by global fashion houses has become a talking point. Indian businessman Harsh Goenka criticized the imbalance, stating, “They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture.”
V. Cultural Appropriation Concerns Beyond Prada
1. Recurring Global Missteps
This incident is part of a broader pattern of cultural misappropriation by international fashion labels. At the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, luxury brand Gucci referred to a traditional Indian sari worn by actress Alia Bhatt as a gown, drawing sharp criticism. Similarly, a viral trend on TikTok mischaracterized the South Asian dupatta as a Scandinavian scarf, showcasing a frequent lack of cultural context in mainstream fashion narratives.
2. A Sense of Pride Amid Controversy
Despite the controversy, some in Kolhapur have taken a more optimistic view of the attention their craft is receiving. “Artisans are happy that someone is recognising their work,” said Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, suggesting that global interest—if channeled respectfully—could ultimately benefit the community.
Conclusion
Prada’s acknowledgment of the Indian heritage behind its sandal design marks an important step in the ongoing conversation about cultural respect and intellectual property in fashion. While the controversy has highlighted issues of exploitation and attribution, it also opens the door for potential collaboration and mutual respect between global brands and local artisans. As luxury fashion continues to draw inspiration from traditional crafts around the world, the industry faces growing calls to ensure that credit, compensation, and cultural integrity are never left behind.
